Three unique US fashion brands are showing impeccable resort lines for 2016. Orley, until now a label catering exclusively to men, Adam Lippes and Veronica Beard are mixing plenty of innovation with a soupcon of nostalgia in some of the best collections of the year.
The two Veronicas behind the Veronica Beard label are calling their resort ’16 line “Après-ski, après-sun” and it certainly covers the gamut of holiday hangouts while offering a range of intriguing looks from 1970s hippie to futurist glam girl. Skirts are lean, long and slit, tops have fun crossover cuts and pants are still skinny.
On offer are dickey jackets, vests, a pair of gauchos, a print granny dress that looks right out of the 1930s, sleek white evening wear, even a sequin tuxedo.
Although Adam Lippes claims Cuba as inspiration for his 2016 resort collection, his most extensive to date, there is much that is classic in his latest line, transcending the national dress of his dreams. To be sure, Cuban style is elegantly translated, including the embroidered Guayabera and Castro green in a cashmere tank. But the novel cut and drape of long, flowing skirts, boleros, jackets in leather, a trench or two, and a romantic maxi dress with fringe trim speak more to European flair married to fine English tailoring. High heel Russian boots in bright red or yellow suede are stunning accessories, and haven’t been seen in fashion for a hundred years, since the London-based Lucile launched the swashbuckling footwear in her 1915 New York shows.
Although there’s a lot to take in, the overall look is cohesive and ultimately so varied in the separates that Lippes loves – including some novel sweaters in hand crochet – that the collection’s success with his busy clients is guaranteed.
The Orley fashion geniuses – Matthew, Alex and Samantha – are among the most accomplished young designers showing a 2016 resort line. It’s the first women’s line for these men’s knitwear experts who were 2014 CFDA Fashion Fund finalists and are on this year’s LVMH Prize short list.
Doing what they do best, the Orley trio has produced a women’s knitwear collection of classic separates with an offbeat vintage touch that sounds just the right note of kooky Boho meets period Chanel. Cardigans, tunic-like vests, boleros, long and short skirts, exquisite stitch work, bright colors and all over trimness distinguish the Orley look. Menswear references are unavoidable for this team and they work well in this debut line. “It’s youthful but not necessarily young,” Alex Orley admitted to Women’s Wear Daily’s Jessica Iredale. “We like to deconstruct old clothing or something nostalgic or retro. It feels familiar but is done in a slightly subverted way.”