Milos Island is a wonderful place for gods and goddesses to live, as it is for mortals, cats, dogs, and donkeys (although you don’t see as many donkeys around these days). Venus de Milo used to live here until she was whisked away to a foreign land to live in their Louvre Museum. Quel dommage!
It’s a great place to spend a few weeks getting away from the “rat race.” So many things to do such as lying on the beach and forgetting all the other things to do. Early to mid-September is an excellent time to be there – warm breezes off the Aegean Sea, days filled with sunshine. The friendly, generous people of this congenial island. And, the food of Milos – Opa! Marvelous!
There many fine places to stay, resorts, hotels, bed and breakfasts. I recommend the Portini Hotel in the port town of Adamantas. If you stay there, try to get one of the rooms or suites on the roof garden overlooking the bay. From the roof garden balcony, outside our suite we enjoyed the beauty of the Aegean below, the promenade, the boats moored in the harbor, the aromas wafting up from the restaurants; and the sounds and sights of the nightlife. It was also a special treat to meet Kristina, the hotel’s charming and gracious owner.
The breakfast buffet alone is worth the stay – a treat for both the eye and the palette and, of course, the smell of the superb Greek coffee brewing. There is an abundance of delicacies, dark Greek breads, many kinds of pastries, and the pies this country is noted for; eggs — however you want – olives, cheeses, meats, and yogurt that bears no resemblance to the ” Greek yogurt” we get in the USA.
There are many excellent places around Milos to try the fresh, tasty cuisine of the island, especially seafood taken daily from the waters locally. Armenaki Restaurant in Pollonia, Ergina Restaurant in Trypiti, and Flisvos Restaurant/Tavern right outside of our hotel, on the harbor in Adamantas, to name a few.
Be sure to visit Plaka, the old town, with its winding streets, whitewashed buildings covered in bougainvillea and an abundance of shops featuring island-made handicrafts, fine jewelry and clothing; and no lack of tavernas (cafes) where you may sample the local cuisine and drink. The ancient church there, with its ornate fixtures and icons, is also a must see.
Take a boat tour around the island. We went with Chrysovalandou Catamarans. It was a great way to see Milos from another perspective. We anchored in a small cove and ate a typical lunch including zucchini salad and octopus sauce on pasta. The octopus was caught that morning and prepared on the boat. The tour included some spontaneous Greek dancing with the crew, Captain Polychronis and his First Mate (some of the female passengers commented, that they must be related to the Greek god Apollo).
Milos is very active geothermally. One of the places where we ate, Sirocco Restaurant in Paleochari, cooks dishes in the hot beach sand in front of the establishment. Pots of food are buried and then dug up when ready. I’m not sure if this affects the flavor of the food, but the meat dish I had tasted excellent.
The word Milos means mining and the Mining Museum there is a very enlightening view of the history and importance of the island. Other sites to see are the first Christian catacombs and the tunnels the Nazis had the local people build at the end of World War II.
Another interesting place to visit is the fishermen’s harbor where the boats are kept inside the houses, downstairs in the kitchen and living area. Above is a loft for sleeping. We were invited in to see some of these unusual “boat houses” and meet their gracious residents.
Ms. de Milo was probably a cat person judging by all the well fed cats on the island. Every café has one or more. The seafood restaurants are the cat favorites.
If Venus were to come back here to live I’m sure she’d be very happy — there’s something to be said for French cuisine, but there’s no doubt a good home-cooked Milos meal would be her preference. Maybe yours too – as it was mine.
If You Go